Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Recap Roundup - Top Chef Masters 3 Episode 8

Jordan Baker on the Reichl Effect: "Hugh says it’s a great honor to have been here for his charity, and a lot of fun. He says some other things, but I keep thinking about how much he must hate Ruth Reichl and her giant hair colony – in the 5 episodes where she was off writing annoying, gnomic tweets, he did really well. But in 2 of the 3 episodes where she was around, he got bounced."

SF Foodie on the Quickfire judging: "Like something out of a mad scientists wet dream, the guest judges were two comediennes fused together in the for Frangela (Francis and Angela). Even though everyone seemed to make the same dish -- zapped chanterelles and eggs together -- longtime microwaver Hugh was deemed the winner."

Oregon Live on wardrobe choices: "But it's only the judges' opinions that matter this week. Regular judge James Oseland shows up in a ridiculous black bow tie and pencil-thin suspenders (maybe he didn't think he'd have time to go home and change before heading to the barber shop quartet competition after the show), the latest in his sartorial weirdness this season."

Reality TV Calendar on teamwork: "And in the checkout line, the all good friends together thing is demonstrated again. Floyd needs more meat. Mary Sue offers to buy it for him. There’s no time to get it to her to meet the time constraint but Floyd gets the meat from the butcher and tosses it down the stairs into the waiting arms of Hugh who tosses it to Mary Sue who is in line and all is well. The Harlem Globetrotters would be proud."

Is Marquee Blog watching the same versions of Top Chef as we are? "The other thing is that this week’s guest critic is Padma Lakshmi. I’m THRILLED to have Padma liven up this show. You know who shouldn’t be thrilled? Curtis Stone. Because when you see what a good host can bring to the table, even in a guest appearance, it provides a stark contrast to just how wooden he is."

TWOP on shopping: "The chefs head to Whole Foods for the usual shop n' talk. Hugh is making an okra salad where the kids have to make their own mayonnaise. Yeah, THAT should be a big winner with the teens. He's going to have to sculpt those little okra in the shape of Justin Bieber if he wants the teens to even consider letting them past their lips. Naomi on the other hand is making pizza with three different types of flour to show how elasticity is affected. Traci dead pans that she is going to cook fish in acid a.k.a. ceviche. Ricotta was too boring. The end. It's too bad Traci can't buy some charisma at Whole Foods."

Celebrity Chefs Examiner on the scientists: "Curtis brings on the science as well as the chefs’ “lab assistants”, who are five scientists who have five ingredients representing scientific principles. Carlin is a Nanotechnologist who has pizza dough to represent Elasticity. Heidi is a chemist with milk and molasses representing Viscosity. Carolyn is an Evolutionary Biologist with citrus, representing Acidity. Augustine is a physicist with a vinaigrette representing Emulsion. Michael is a physicist with beef to represent the Maillard Reaction.

Monkeys as Critics on science: "There’s a lot of science talk that makes me think Alton Brown is soooo much more interesting than this and I now give him that much more credit for making science and food interesting. Hugh seems to agree with me, as he usually skipped science class growing up. Floyd, however, has a masters in biochemistry. Now, that’s an edge! No wonder his dad was disappointed he became a chef. No offense, it all turned out alright, but still, that’s a lot of education to only use during a reality competition challenge."

AV Club's stray observation of the week: "I love (read: hate) how Floyd’s reaction to a terrible joke about cooking bacon naked was to make an even worse joke about a meat grinder. Curtis was relieving some tension in an awkward moment with two generally unfunny comediennes; Floyd was just trying too hard."

Grub Street on funny business: "For no reason at all, the Quickfire judges are comedy duo Frangela, whom you might remember if you used to spend your Friday nights misguidedly watching Best Week Ever. Like many comedians, they say nothing funny at all, and the only good thing they do is ask Curtis to take his shirt off. (He does not oblige.) Curtis advises the ladies never to cook bacon naked. 'And never use a meat grinder naked, too!' Floyd adds. Let’s leave the dumb jokes to Hugh, shall we?"

A Just Recompense on Famous Microwave Users: "But here’s the thing, people: El Bulli is considered by most to be the best restaurant in the world, and chef Albert Adria prides himself on his 40-second microwave sponge cake (which Richard Blais has made a couple of times while sous-ing for Cat Cora on Iron Chef). See what you might’ve been able to do if you weren’t such microwave snobs?"

Eater on the Quickfire Judges: "I LOVED these judges. They had more swag than any other judge on the show, they were hilarious, happy, impressed by everything. It was like feeding homeless Oprahs, just delightful people trying to start book clubs. At one point they said that Tracy’s dish was reminiscent of the tropics and told Curt Stone to take his shirt off. Take notes Restaurant Girl, that’s game, he was up in the range man..."


Posted on AllTopChef.com

Monday, June 6, 2011

TC News & Information 6.6.2011

If you haven't been able to make it to any of the stops on the latest Top Chef tour, Angelo Sosa and Nikki Cascone share a taste of it in this video.

Cookbook news: According to the Hollywood Reporter, Antonio LoFaso is penning The Busy Moms Cookbook, slated for Fall 2012. Top Chef Masters "regular" judge Ruth Reichl is also writing a cookbook...based on her Tweets.

Rocco DiSpirito talks about the difference between his upcoming Rocco's Dinner Party and that trainwreck called The Restaurant. (Hint: he's not less-douchy in the new show.)

Posted on AllTopChef.com

Sunday, June 5, 2011

Rocco's Dinner Party

Some-time Top Chef judge Rocco DiSpirito has his own show on Bravo, debuting on June 15th at 11pm, after the finale of Top Chef Masters season 3. We'll be covering Rocco's Dinner Party here on All Top Chef.

I've seen the first episode, and Rocco is a bit...bitchy...which should please viewers who enjoy a bit of strife in their competitive cooking reality shows.

Stay tuned!

Posted on AllTopChef.com

Saturday, June 4, 2011

Top Recipe - Mary Sue Milliken's Churros

Dulce de Leche Churros, Chocolate Mousse & Spiced Café de Olla

Churro Tots:
2 1/2 cups water
13 1/4 ounces unsalted butter
4 1/2 ounces (10 tablespoons) brown sugar
2 1/2 teaspoons salt
5 cups all-purpose flour
10 eggs
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
2 1/2 cups homemade or store bought Dulce de Leche (see recipe below) or cajeta
Oil, for frying
1 cup sugar
3 tablespoons ground cinnamon

Dulce de Leche:
7 cups whole milk
3 cups sugar
1/2 teaspoon baking soda

Chocolate Mousse with Rum Soaked Raisins:
3 tablespoons rum
1/2 cup golden raisins
1 pound 2 ounces semisweet chocolate (58%)
1 3/4 cups (3 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter
10 eggs, separated

Crème Anglaise:
8 egg yolks
1 cup sugar
2 cups whole milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Vanilla Crema:
1 vanilla bean split and scraped
1/4 cup water
1/4 cup sugar
1 cup crème fraiche

Spiced Cafe de Olla:
2 cinnamon sticks
2 allspice berries
2 whole cloves
2 star anise
4 cups water
1/4 cup packed dark brown sugar or 4 ounces piloncillo (Mexican raw sugar cones)
1 cup dark roast coffee beans, medium grind or 3/4 cup pre-ground beans
1 cup frothed, warm milk

DIRECTIONS

Churro Tots:
Place water, butter, brown sugar and salt in a 3-quart saucepan and bring to a boil. Add flour all at once and stir vigorously until mixture forms a ball and smells like toasted flour. Transfer to the bowl of a mixer and paddle dough while adding eggs one at a time allowing machine to incorporate each egg before the next addition. Scrape down sides and bottom of bowl often and add vanilla. Lastly, add dulce de leche and mix until thoroughly incorporated. Transfer mixture to a container and refrigerate until ready to fry. Heat vegetable oil for frying in a pot. Place churro batter in a pastry bag fitted with a large star tube. When oil is 375 degrees Fahrenheit drop 2-inch long churros from the pastry bag into the oil and fry about 4 minutes or until well browned and floating. Centers will still be a tiny bit gooey because of the dulce de leche in the batter. Remove churros to a paper lined plate. Combine sugar and cinnamon and toss with hot churros. Serve immediately with chocolate mousse, crème anglaise, dulce de leche syrup, and vanilla crema.

Dulce de Leche:
Combine ingredients in a large, heavy saucepan. Place over medium heat and cook stirring often for 45 minutes to an hour or until mixture becomes a caramel color and is thick enough that you can see the bottom of the pan as you stir. By volume it should be reduced to about 1 1/2 to 2 cups.Cool to room temperature and use immediately or store in refrigerator until ready to use.

Chocolate Mousse with Rum Soaked Raisins:
Line a 12 1/2- x 4 1/2-inch sharp-edged loaf pan with enough aluminum foil to hang over sides about 3 inches. Combine rum and raisins in a small saucepan and warm over low heat. Reserve.Chop chocolate into small pieces and melt with butter in the top of a double boiler or in a bowl over simmering water. Remove from heat and stir in reserved raisins and rum. Whisk in yolks until combined. Whisk egg whites until soft peaks form. Gently fold whites into chocolate mixture in two stages.Pour into prepared pan, tap on counter to remove air pockets, smooth top, and cover with plastic wrap touching the top of the chocolate mixture. Chill 6 hours or overnight. To serve, remove plastic wrap and invert onto a serving platter. The chocolate should release easily. Remove aluminum foil. Can be served in slices or scoops with crème anglaise.

Crème Anglaise:
In a large bowl, whisk together egg yolks and sugar. Place milk in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Pour hot milk into egg mixture, whisking constantly. Return to saucepan. Cook over moderate heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens slightly and coats the back of a wooden spoon, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in vanilla and chill.

Vanilla Crema:
Bring water, sugar and vanilla bean to a boil and simmer gently until well infused, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and chill. Mix syrup with crème fraiche (discarding bean pod) and serve immediately.

Spiced Cafe de Olla:
Lightly crush spices in a mortar and pestle. In a saucepan, combine the water, sugar, and spices and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring to melt the sugar. Stir in the coffee grounds, remove from heat, cover, and steep for 5 minutes.Strain the coffee through a fine sieve or a coffee filter into a pitcher. Serve the coffee in tall glasses with the frothed milk in a pitcher alongside.

To assemble:

Prepare each component of the dish per the recipes below. In a Petri dish place a ring of Dulce de Leche Syrup around edge followed by a squirt of Crème Anglaise. Place a small scoop of Chocolate Mousse in the center with a Churro Tot on top. Drizzle with Vanilla Crema and serve immediately with a test tube of Spiced Café de Olla.

© 2011 CHEF MARY SUE MILLIKEN

Posted on AllTopChef.com

Friday, June 3, 2011

All Top Chef Interview with Hugh Acheson


Master Chef Hugh Acheson talks about his experience on the show. It was great to get to know him a little better.

A highlight:: Hugh has written a cookbook called "A New Turn in the South: Southern Flavors Reinvented for Your Kitchen." The book will be available in October. Click here for more information.

Click here for the podcast.

Thank you Chef Hugh!

Posted on AllTopChef.com

Bravo Exit Interview - Hugh Acheson


Posted on AllTopChef.com

Thursday, June 2, 2011

Congratulations, Chef Mary Sue Milliken!

Wow - this week we had yet another win from Chef Mary Sue Milliken! She's won so many Elimination Challenges so far, I've lost count (but I'll bet Floyd Cardoz remembers, since he was on the top with her every time).



Congrats Chef! Only 2 more episodes to go - will you win those, too?

This post is only for positive comments about Chef Milliken and her dishes. If you have anything negative to say, please do so here.

Posted on AllTopChef.com

ATC Love to Chef Hugh Acheson

Doesn't it seem like we've already said good-bye to Chef Hugh Acheson? Oh yeah, we did - way back in episode 1. Hugh was brought back for a second chance and during his tenure in the competition, he won three Quickfire Challenges. Unfortunately, despite winning a Quickfire this week, his performance in the Elimination Challenge got him, well, eliminated, and this time he won't be back.



Chef Acheson - you are so entertaining to watch, and we're very sorry to see  you go. Again.

This post is only for positive comments about Chef Acheson and his dishes. If you have anything negative to say, please do so here.

Posted on AllTopChef.com

Reactions to Top Chef Masters 3 Episode 8

This week was full of gadgets and science. First, the five remaining Top Chef Masters cheftestants had to create a breakfast dish in 10 minutes using only a microwave oven. The contest was judged by two comedians who go by the collective name of "Frangela." They weren't so crazy about Traci's oeufs en cocotte or Mary Sue's avocado sandwich, but they loved Floyd's omelette and especially Hugh's "baked" egg, giving him his third Quickfire win in this competition.

Science comes into the Elimination Challenge, where the chefs are paired with scientists and must demonstrate a scientific property using food, for an "edible science fair." As the winner of the QF, Hugh gets first choice and picks emulsion. Traci then takes acidity, Mary Sue viscosity, Floyd Maillard reaction, and Naomi gets elasticity.

The real task here is not so much working with scientific principles, but working with scientific instruments. The chefs had to cook only with lab supplies - beakers, petri dishes, bunsen burners, and induction burners. After 30 minutes of planning and $300 of shopping, the chefs get 4 hours to prep.

Mary Sue sticks to what she knows and makes churros to serve with sauces that each possess a different thickness or viscosity. Floyd makes beef two ways, one seared to demonstrate the Maillard reaction, and one cooked shabu-shabu style in broth to demonstrate the lack of browning. Traci cooks ahi tuna with lemon juice to make a ceviche. Hugh makes a mayonnaise. And Naomi plays with pizza dough using different types of flour, plus mozzarella cheese.

Along with a gaggle of kids, the Critics attend the "science fair." This week we finally get to see Ruth Reichl again, along with Padma Lakshmi. After watching the chefs' demos and tasting the food, they decide that Mary Sue and Floyd both had the strongest dishes. The two of them have been on the top in this competition several times, and Mary Sue always wins. And guess what? Mary Sue wins this time, too.

Naomi gets complaints from Padma for the gelee she put in her calzones. Rather than melting and making a sauce, it only served to make the calzone soggy. And James said that the gelee "spurted in his mouth in a most unpleasant way."

,,,

James also had issues with Hugh's mayonnaise, which he considered to be "broken." Hugh disagreed. And Traci's dish was just too obvious a choice to demonstrate acid. Padma said she would have liked to see a different acid employed, like tamarind. [insert eyeroll here] Um, Pads, they only had 30 minutes to plan.

Anyhoo...Hugh's mayo was apparently the most egregious error du jour, and he was asked to pack his knives.

What did you think about this episode? Please tell us in the comments.


Posted on AllTopChef.com

Wednesday, June 1, 2011